Lowest total cost through your horizon
not applicableThe lender's rate without points is missing. Discount points do not buy a fixed rate reduction, so this cannot be estimated.
SwitchWize decision guide
Most points calculators assume a point always buys about a quarter of a percent. It does not. The reduction depends on the lender, the loan, and the day, so this guide asks for the two rates your lender actually quoted and compares all three uses of the same cash over the years you expect to keep the loan.
What you can expect
Quick answer
If points
Best when the rate gap your lender quoted is wide and you are confident you will keep this loan for many years.
If bigger down payment
Best when the smaller loan clears a mortgage-insurance or pricing threshold, or when you simply want the lowest balance.
If keep the cash
Best when you may move or refinance soon, when your reserves are thin, or when the cash earns more than the mortgage costs.
Key number to watch
Ask your lender for two numbers on the same loan: the rate with no points, and the rate with points. A point does not buy a fixed rate cut, so this cannot be estimated for you.
Test your situation
Change any number below to match your situation. No login is required, and your entries stay in this browser.
The agreed price of the home.
What you planned to put down before deciding what to do with the extra cash.
The amount that could go to points, to the down payment, or stay in the bank.
How long before you sell or refinance
Most people keep a mortgage far less time than its full term. Be honest here, because it decides the answer.
From your lender's quote
Copy these from your Loan Estimate or written quote. Nothing leaves your browser.
From your Loan Estimate. Leave blank and this guide will not guess.
The rate the same lender quoted on the same loan once points are paid.
The dollar cost of the points in that quote. One point is one percent of the loan, not of the price.
Both quotes must be for the same term to be comparable.
Ask your lender for the rate with points and the rate without points on the same loan. Without both, any answer here would be a guess.
We are not showing a winner for this one
points
Not modeled
modeled after-tax interest
down-payment
Not modeled
modeled after-tax interest
keep-cash
Not modeled
modeled after-tax interest
Try a scenario
What could change this
Ask your lender for two numbers on the same loan: the rate with no points, and the rate with points. A point does not buy a fixed rate cut, so this cannot be estimated for you.
How certain: scenario dependent
The lender's rate without points is missing. Discount points do not buy a fixed rate reduction, so this cannot be estimated.
All three start from the same dollars at closing.
This is the difference people most often overlook.
These are not strictly either-or. The cash can be split, and the order matters more than the split.
Educational illustration only. The right amount depends on your needs and timing.
Question 1
Yes: Do that first and re-run the numbers with the insurance removed.
No: Move on to the rate comparison.
Question 2
Yes: Enter them above for a dollar answer.
No: Ask for both before deciding. A point does not buy a fixed rate cut.
Question 3
Yes: Points are worth considering.
No: Keep the cash or increase the down payment instead.
Each option is amortised month by month to your horizon. The comparison adds the cash paid at closing, the interest and mortgage insurance paid along the way, and the loan balance still owed at the horizon, then subtracts what any cash kept out of the house would have grown to.
The two mortgage rates and the point cost have no defaults, because a point does not buy a fixed rate reduction and guessing one would produce a confident wrong answer. Everything else starts at a common illustrative value you can change.
Reviewed quarterly, and whenever the underlying regulator guidance changes. Editorial conclusions do not depend on affiliate availability.
Source for the rule that a point buys no fixed rate reduction and that offers should be compared across holding periods.
Where each figure this calculator asks for appears on the form.
Basis for the loan-to-value cancellation input.
There is no fixed answer, which is exactly why this calculator asks for both quoted rates instead of assuming one. The Consumer Financial Protection Bureau states that the reduction depends on the lender, the loan type, and the market on the day you lock.
The loan. On a 500,000 home with 100,000 down, the loan is 400,000, so one point costs 4,000, not 5,000.
The month in which the accumulated payment savings from the lower rate have finally repaid what you spent on points. Keep the loan past it and points paid off. Sell or refinance before it and they did not.
Because the money would have been doing something else. In the worked example the points break even in month 62, well inside a seven-year horizon, and still lose, because the cash kept liquid grows by more than the points save.
No. It tends to win when it crosses a mortgage-insurance or lender pricing threshold, and to lose when it lands just short of one, because then it only shrinks the loan slightly.
Then they cost you nothing and break even immediately. Enter the amount someone else is paying in the advanced inputs so it is not counted against your cash.
No. They are identical whichever option you pick, so including them would add a large number to all three totals without changing which one wins.
No. Whether it applies depends on your own return, and getting it wrong would move the answer. Treat the result as pre-tax and ask a tax professional about your situation.